Leeds in the 90s… it was cool. Some of the events, brands, stores,
music being produced in the city were some of the most exciting in the
world. One brand that really encapsulated a lot of that buzz is Nicholas
Deakins, a footwear and clothing brand born in Leeds, with a White Rose
in its logo that everyone had to have. I checked in with Nicholas
Deakins founder and Managing Director Craig Tate to talk about some of
the history behind the brand and how that 90s buzz might be coming back
to Leeds.
Interview
Lee Hicken: You studied fashion and
textiles in London before starting ND, how did you find that experience?
An important part of your development?
Craig Tate: My time at college was
invaluable to the development of Nicholas Deakins, it gave me the basics
of design and opened my eyes further into the magical world of fashion.
LH: So ND started when two friends decided to work together, what was the reason behind that? Gap in market? Creative itch?
CT: Basically a gap in the market, there
was nothing out there except Patrick Cox at £180 or Red or Dead so, we
used our combined knowledge to design a boot that could be worn in the
clubs we were going to like the
Hacienda and
Back to Basics. The first boot made out of WJ Brooke’s has become iconic.
LH: You used to work in Strand before starting ND, what was the scene like back then in Leeds? Was fashion important?
CT: My time at Strand was fantastic, Dave
Dalby was a UK fashion big hitter who ran a tight ship but knew how to
enjoy himself as well! His drinking escapades are the stuff of legends
and he gave me an excellent grounding in all that is fashion. Strand
were also the very first account to buy Nicholas Deakins and it took off
from there.
LH: The brand grew very
quickly and your first collection sold out right away. What do you think
the reason was? Did you just hit the right note at the right time?
CT: Yes. The timing was perfect, our first collection was exactly what everyone had been waiting for.
LH: Another
friend of ours, Dave Beer jokingly claims lots of the credit for ND
because of Back2Basics, was this true in a way though? Were the music
and fashion scenes in Leeds heavily linked?
CT: Ha ha, yes music and fashion in Leeds
went hand in hand. Everyone at Nicholas Deakins spent time with Dave
and Back to Basics, and he’s a great friend of mine, we definitely
helped each other along the way.
LH: After Justin (co-founder Justin Deakin) left the business, what was your vision for the future?
CT: My vision has always been the same,
to continuously design footwear that I myself would like to wear,
admittedly we’ve now grown and are able to react to younger trends as
well but the core principle is the same.
LH: How big is the company now? How many countries do you sell in etc?
CT: In the nineties we exported to 14
different countries and had great success in Japan, however the loss of
our main supplier affected this and recently we’ve concentrated on the
UK market. This year we’ve opened new accounts in Russia, Australia and
the US and will be in Indonesisia for SS13.
LH: Tell us about the way your brand is working now with
ND,
Heritage and
Deakins. For our readers, what are the differences between each strand?
CT: Nicholas Deakins is aimed at the more
discerning consumer, it’s all about classic design and quality
manufacturing. The heritage range sits within this and consists of our
core apron boot group that we are best known for. Deakins is a later
arrival, launched in 2000 this is a more commercial collection with more
competitive price points and attracts a younger audience. There’s
something for everyone.
LH: What are your plans for the future of the company?
CT: We’ve been around for 21 years now. I
intend to develop and diversify the brands further, the apparel is
going from strength to strength for example and I expect great growth
here.
LH: What advice would you have for young menswear / footwear designers in Leeds?
CT: Advice, that’s easy; you’ve got to
have a design or product that’s special, next you must retain its
quality but above all you need to work your socks off! Be prepared for
some long hours.
LH: What do you think we need to do to
build a fashion industry here in Leeds? How do we stop our best talent
leaving and recreate some of the buzz from the 90s?
CT: The nineties was a very special time
for Leeds in terms of fashion and music etc, but I can see a similar
situation again especially with the work the digital and social media
guys are putting out at the moment.
Check out Leeds Online and the article here: http://ow.ly/eUhWy
